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Parts List - Small Engine GEET
Conversion
(Some Engines Only - ½" Steel Adapter
Plate with 4 - ¾" Allen Screws and 12" steel disk)
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Fuel Processor
1 - 16 7/16" x ½" Black Pipe - (Cut +
Threaded)
1 - 12" x 1" Black Pipe Nipple (painted)
1 - 12" x ½" Steel Rod
2 - 1" x ½" x ½" Galvanized Reducing Tees (Ward - best)
2 - 22mm / 7/8" Copper Oil Drain Plug Washers
1 - 2" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipple
1 - ½" Galvanized Pipe Connector
1 - 1" Galvanized Pipe Hangar with Bolt & Nuts
3 - 1½" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipples
1 - 3" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipple
3 - ½" NPT Ball Valves (B&K - best)
1 - ½" Galvanized NPT Muffler
2 - ½" Galvanized Pipe Tees
2 - ½" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Reducing Bushings
1 - Can Hi-Temp Grill Paint
27" - ½" Copper Tubing (* 5/8")
2 - ½" NPT / ½¾" Brass Male Flare Fitting (* 5/8")
2 - ½" Brass Flare Nuts (* 5/8")
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Bubbler
1 - 1 gallon Anti-Freeze Jug
4 - ½" Galvanized Hose Clamps
6' - ½" ID Clear Vinyl Hose - (cut in half)
2 - 3" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Nipples - (cut in half)
4 - 9/16" Galvanized Bushing Washers - (1/8" thick)
1 - ¼" Galvanized Pipe Elbow
2 - ¾" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Nipples
1 - ¼" Galvanized Pipe Connector
1 - 10¾" x ½" Copper Water Pipe
1 - ½" Copper Pipe Cap
2 - ½" x ¼" NPT Copper Pipe Adapters
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Step 1 - Tools needed -
pipe wrench, crescent wrench, spring tube benders, pipe cutter, pipe flaring
tool, allen wrench, soldering equipment, file, and screw driver. Obtain all
your parts and tools needed for the conversion ahead of time.
Most professional plumbing supply stores stock higher quality parts compared
to large home centers cheap plumbing parts. The savings aren't that much on
a small project like this. The most crucial quality part is on the inner
pipe, problems arise from inconsistent wall thickness, out of roundness,
thick weld seams, etc on low quality pipe.
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(1) Tools Needed
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Step 2 -
Strip down the engine removing the gas tank, muffler, and carburetor. Remove
the mower blade and replace with a 12" diameter steel disk flywheel of the
same thickness as the blade for safety.
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(2) Stripped Engine
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Step 3 -
Take the 1"x1/2"x1/2" reducing tees and mount them on a 1" nipple (short
pipe), and then using a lathe, machine the end smooth and fly cut (bore out)
the hole in the end 27/32" (21mm) so that the 1/2" inner pipe will slide
inside. This procedure can also be done by using a drill press to drill a
27/32" or 7/8" hole in the end of the tee and then use a file to smooth the
roughness off.
The 1/2" pipe connector and 1/2" tee will each need to have one end smoothed
off as well to receive the copper washers as a tight seal. If anyone has a
machine shop that would like to do this for others, contact GEET. We might
also offer a complete kit that has all the parts ready to be assembled in
minutes if there's enough interest.
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(3) Tee & Connector
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Step 4 -
Have a plumber or plumbing center cut your inner reactor 1/2" pipe to 16 +
7/16" and thread both ends. Use Black Pipe here because galvanized pipe
gives off toxic fumes if heated too much. File the 12" x 1/2" multi-fuel
steel rod to a bullet point on one end only. (7 + 3/8" x 1/2" for gasoline
only) This will keep you out of trouble later if you can't remember which
way the rod points. The engine will not run if the rod is put in backwards
after it has a magnetic signature.
Assemble the parts in order as in the above picture using the 7/8" / 22mm
copper.washers used in oil drain plugs for cars. (2 - 1"x1/2"x1/2" machined
reducing tees joined by the 12" long 1" nipple, slide the 16 + 7/16" long
1/2" reactor pipe inside, add a copper washer on each end and then add the
1/2" connector and 1/2" tee.)
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(4) Plumbing Pipes & Rod
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Step 5 -
Assemble the other valve component subassemblies above. The 1/2" thick steel
intake / exhaust adapter plate above is used only on some engines like
"Tecumseh" and Overhead Valve Engines (picture 9).
Some "Briggs and Stratton" engines, etc usually already have the
exhaust threaded for 1/2" pipe, but the intake is on the other side of the
engine causing longer hose runs. Also a compression pipe connector or a
piece of rubber hose with clamps will need to be connected from the engine
intake to the Bubbler pipe.
(1/2" valve (Air Mixture Valve), 1 1/2" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" tee, 1 1/2" x
1/2" nipple, 1/2" valve (Throttle Valve), 1/2" to 1/4" pipe reducer bushing,
half of 3" x 1/4" nipple.) and (Muffler, 1/2" ball valve (Optional - Back
pressure valve), 3" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" tee, 1/2" to 1/4" pipe reducer
bushing, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1 1/2" nipple.)
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(5) Valve Components
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Step 6 -
Assemble the sub-assemblies onto the reaction chamber above making sure to
install the 12" rod inside pointed away from the engine. Now it's time to
start on the bubbler.
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(6) Finished Reactor
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Step 7 -
Take 10 3/4" x 1/2" copper pipe and solder a copper 1/4" NPT - 1/2" pipe
adaptor on one end and a 1/2" cap on the other. Drill a 1/16" hole through
the cap, turn 90 degrees and drill through again, also one up through the
bottom. Take the other 1/4" NPT - 1/2" adaptor and cut off the thinwall
portion to make a pipe nut and file smooth for inside the Anti-Freeze jug.
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(7) Bubbler End & Pipe Nut
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Step 8 -
Take a 1 gallon anti-freeze jug and drill a 1/2" hole near the top of the
jug and through the cap as illustrated. Assemble the parts together in the
following order. (Hose, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1/4" pipe connector, short
3/4" nipple, bushing, hole in jug, bushing, and pipe nut.) and ( (Optional -
Back Pressure Hose), half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1/4" pipe elbow, short 3/4"
nipple, bushing, hole in jug cap, bushing, and soldered pipe.)
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(8) Bubbler & Hoses
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Step 9 -
The port adapter was formed by cleaning the intake and exhaust ports off.
Then dipping a finger in the exhaust port to get some soot to rub on wide
masking tape taped over the ports. This then leaves a perfect template to
then tape into a 1/2" thick piece of steel, then drill the mounting and the
port holes and tap the ports with a 1/2" NPT thread tap.
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(9) Exhaust & Intake
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Step 10-
Use 1/2" tubing for 10 HP or less (* 5/8" tubing and flare fittings for
10-20 HP) with a 1/2" tubing spring bender and form a loop, then remove the
spring. Slide the flare nuts on each end, and then slide the flaring tool on
so that the pipe sticks out about 3/16", make the flared ends.
(Air-Conditioning supply houses carry flare fittings if you have difficulty
finding them.)
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(10) Tubing Loop
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Step 11 -
Assemble all the parts onto the engine, and then add a 1" pipe support or 1
1/4" exhaust hangar. Fill the bubbler up no more than 1/4 full till you get
used to using it (up to half full later), have someone steady the jug while
starting the engine so it doesn't spill into the hoses. If wet fuel gets on
the reaction rod it will stop running, you'll have to dry your rod and hoses
out. You can hang it from the mower handle if you like later after it's
started.
You must point the exhaust end of the rod due North while starting the
engine the first time and let it run for 30 min to "burn in the rod". The
rod will self center magnetically by itself after it's running or you can
weld three bumps on each end to center the rod (file them to fit snugly).
Leave the optional back pressure valve open, open the throttle and mixture
valve about halfway, and start the engine by varying the air mixture valve.
Then slowly increase the throttle wide open while adjusting the air mixture
valve. Make sure to paint all external pipes and connectors with High
Temperature Grill Paint or they will rust very quickly. (Except copper,
brass or galvanized)
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(11) Finished Conversion
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Step 12 -
For an installation on a generator, you can also use 90 degree elbows to
keep the pipes within the cage. Mount the GEET Fuel Processor as far away as
possible from the generator magnetic field so they do not interfere with
each other. Also be very careful with credit cards in your pockets or video
cameras, etc from getting too close to the engine while it's running so they
won't be erased.
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(12) 5 kW GEET Generator
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Finally - Experiment with the optional Back Pressure valve to run
closed loop on heavy fuels, different materials for the inner pipe and
reaction rod. Different rod lengths and also threaded rods, engine side of
the reactor locations for the air mixture and/or throttle valves, exhaust
heated copper tubing from the bubbler to the throttle valve, 5 gallon
bubblers, double bubblers for non-soluble fuels, vacuum gages, etc, etc, and
also "alternative fuels".
The beauty of this design is that it can be reconfigured in minutes.We plan
to set up a 900 number shortly for technical questions, no calls or
technical information will be taken at the main number. We also set up a
newsgroup and
FAQ for experimenters to exchange information and new discoveries. Have fun
with it and let us know how it works out!
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